Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Killer surfboard....

Itacaré has been without alcohol. My body is so happy....especially my liver. It´s jumping around like it has just won the lottery.

We live in a little pousada (house with many rooms, cheap and nice) where we are the only guests (more breakfest for us...hell yeah). And the owners have this adorable, hyperactive dog, Ringo. That dog relaxes aprox. 5 min a day and the other 23 hours it´s running around, jumping, barking and playing, must be hard in this heat. 

So what we´ve been doing here is mostly recharge the battery since carneval, workout to get the beerstomach away and enjoy the good weather. 
Early on monday we decided to try surfing. Woke up before any normal person does and walked towards the surfinstructer. First thing we had to do was to carry the board to the surfspot (and yes, I know I sound like a professional...but that´s because I aaaaam). I could believe that that is probably one of the most BORING thing about surfing, especially to carry it back after the whole surfingsession.
First the guy ( I will call him Surfie) talked about the waves, how to get up on the board and the history of surfing (thats when I was close to falling a sleep). After yapping away for a good half an hour we finally went out to the sea and got on to it. Surfie would help us catch the wave and then it was our own job to get up on our feets....wasn´t to hard and it was also quite ok to balance on it (thank you gymnastics and endless trainings on the horrible beam). After Surfie had pushed us in the waves a couple of times me and Maria changed boards....puff..hers was so much harder to get on and balance on plus it had some serious aggression problems going on. First it attacked my thigh and left a big, blue, swollen bruise on it. But that wasnt enough...nono, after a little while it went for my heart. Seriously....with a mega force it attacked my chest (between my boobs to be more precise) and I´m pretty sure it was going for my heart. But I did not surrender but kept on going for some time.
It´s so much fun and so much adrenalin kick but I can see it could take one a very long time to become good and I´m, known to be pretty low on patiency. But surely I will try it again...and perhaps I should come back  to brazil (soon) and do a surftrip and then leave as a Surferchick Inam......and get dreadlocks...and learn how to play the guitar... so I´d leave as Douchchick Inam.

Leaving for Salvador tomorrow and then to the jungle....I got a hot date with tarsan. 

Over and out polarbears

Ps. The bruise is still on my thigh and it´s still big and still painful aaaand my heart aches..lalala


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